Read and follow the instructions – just this way you get a good result
Sufficient amount of paint – always allow for some reserve for possible repairs, etc. (especially for colour shades)
Shade control – most shades change when drying, so you only need to compare shades of already dried paints
Do not rush – prepare the substrate well, allow the penetration and the individual layers of paint to dry well
Checking and preparing the substrate before painting.
- the substrate must be sufficiently dry, firm, cohesive and clean (free of all dirt, dust and grease)
- new plaster must be sufficiently mature, commonly stated at least 4 weeks
- a slightly damaged base (cracks, delves, holes after hanging decorations, etc.) needs to be repaired with sandable mastic
- for surface treatment of whole walls, it is advisable to use suitable mastics for this purpose
What to do with old paint – remove or keep?
- for old paints, it is necessary to verify their type, number of layers and especially adhesion to the substrate
- old glue (clay) paints (darken and lightly wipe and soak when wet) are removed by soaking and scraping or sponge washing (depending on the number of layers applied) – we recommend always removing before re-painting
- lime paint (does not rub when wet) in larger layers cracks and peels – removal by scraping – we recommend to always remove before re-painting
- dispersion coatings (do not lose adhesion when wet) can be over coated without removal
How to treat stain on the walls?
- it is necessary to know the origin of stains and, accordingly, to remove their cause of creation (leakage, thermal bridge, missing waterproofing, etc.)
- poorly overcoatable (permeable) stains (e. g. tar, nicotine, grease) can be removed by rubbing with a suitable insulating coating such as ANTISPOT E0604
- in some cases (eg, damage to the substrate), the stain must be scraped off and the place repaired with putty
Why to use penetration agent?
- The purpose of penetration is to unify the absorbency and increase the strength of the coated surface, thereby increasing the adhesion of the paint itself
- penetration of a new substrate before painting is necessary, we recommend using e. g. deep penetration EKOPEN E0601 or diluted EKOPEN KONCENTRÁT E0602
- if you paint with silicone paint, you need to use silicone deep penetration – here PENSIKON E0604, the same applies to silicate paints – i. e. silicate penetration PENSIL E0603 (applies mainly to façade paints)
- for penetration, you can use a paint brush or roller
- penetration should be allowed to dry properly
How to thin paints?
- stir the paint thoroughly before use, mix it so that the paint does not whip up unnecessarily, any dried pieces of paint on the lid or bucket need to be removed first
- always dilute only the amount of paint you use for painting in a given layer
- the amount of paint for the first coat is diluted with water a little more (as recommended)
- paint for the second coat is thinned less (as recommended)
- mostly the paint is applied in two layers (depending on the paint and condition of the original paint), but always read and follow the instructions – just this way you get a good result
Starting with painting – How and where to start?
- the ceiling is always the first to paint
- for painting the ceiling we use mostly white colour, e. g. PROINTERIÉR TOP V2519 or PROFI V2099, or light pastel tones of COLOR V2005 in an extended range of 21 shades. Another possibility is tinting thousands of shades offered in the COLORLAK tinting system (TSCL) for EKODUR BÁZE E0502 and EKODUR PROFI BÁZE0503
- it is true that richer shades optically shrink and darken the space, while white optically enlarges and illuminates even small and dark spaces
- We usually start painting by the window and proceed to the door
- we proceed in parallel lanes (we try to maintain the direction of painting)
- for painting of the ceiling with paints (and especially dispersion paints) it is easier to use a suitable type of paint roller
- for white and pastel tones it is usually sufficient to paint in one to two layers
- for deep tinted shades, at least two to three layers are needed; a significant saving is to repaint the old coating with one white layer, for example, with the PROINTERIÉR EXTRA V2510.
Painting with a brush and roller has its own specifics
painting with a paint brush
- it is recommended to soak the brush before painting (it softens)
- Painting with a brush is advantageous for more rugged surfaces and especially for rough plaster
- when painting with a roller, brush strokes are not visible
- the roller is usually placed to the wall in the middle, upward and downward strokes are followed by slant strokes, ending up again with vertical strokes up and down