1. Preparation of the substrate
We must remove dirt, mortar and other unevenness before tiling. The levelling of the walls and subsequent penetration is important. The deep impregnation coating is recommended mainly for absorbent substrates, i. e. substrates with a need for deeper reinforcement, especially before laying ceramic tiles using cementitious sealants, insulating coatings and mastic. Penetration reduces and unifies the absorbency of the substrate and increases its cohesion. This provides sufficient time for bonding of the sealants and their adhesion to the substructure.
Depending on the composition of the tiles in the laying plan, the height for laying the tiles is measured and a line is made (approximately at eye level). With a tube level or a laser level transfer the height on the wall to the other and are then connected in a continuous line, which serves as a guide when installing. Measure the walls so that you don’t get very small cuts on one side.
3. Applying adhesive sealant
The tile mastic is applied with a notched trowel, usually the size of the tooth no. 6 or 8 is used depending on the size of the tiles and the surface of the substrate. It is first applied with the smooth side and then pulled out with the notched side
4. wall covering
We lay the tiles from the drawn line upwards and then downwards, under constant control of the vertical plane. Apply the last row after laying the floor tiles. For better adhesion and levelling of tiles, tap each tile with a rubber mallet.
5.measuring of the surface
When laying both classic and large-format tiles, an absolutely flat surface is the most important. Flatness can be measured either with a classic spirit level, most construction companies already offer a hose or laser spirit level. The deviation allowed for your floor is +/- 2 mm for 2 meters in length. If this deviation is greater, levelling is required, preferably with self-levelling mass. It is also recommended to determine the residual moisture content of the substrate, which plays a major role especially for substrates based on gypsum (anhydrite) (max. 0.5%), and can negatively affect the work result.
The tiles are laid from the centre, to prevent the trim would be less than ten centimetres, which could happen when applying from left to right or vice versa, “says Radek Humr, the tiler, and continues: “By planning and laying from the middle of a wall, such a situation can be avoided.”
7. Solution of atypical places in the bathroom
In case we need to make a hole, e. g. for a wiring box or a plumbing, there are several ways to do this. First we measure and mark the outline of the hole. Then use the hole saw or “cut” the hole with an angle grinder with a diamond disc and “break down” with the pliers into the desired shape. If we do not have an angle grinder we can tap the hole using a small hammer and e. g. scaffolding pipe. However, this practice already requires some practice.
When the adhesive cures, which is usually after 24 hours, it is still necessary to fill the gaps between the tiles by grout. In the beginning, you need to carefully scrape off the rest of the tile mastic that has risen in between the tiles when glued. This will prevent unsightly stains that occur when the dark grey tile mastic comes into direct contact with a lighter or coloured grout. Apply the grout with a rubber spatula, moving in slant motions to fill the gaps between tiles. Let it dry so that the grout does not daub in the gap and then remove its excess with a wet foam trowel. After drying, clean the lining with a dry cloth.
The grout is no longer just grey, there are about 25 shades to match the tiles. In the bathroom, you should definitely use grout with hydrophobic ingredients. These are water repellent, minimizing clogging and increasing the ceramic surface hygiene.
9. application of silicone
In all corners silicone joint is required due to the potential stress of the material.
First, put a caulking strand in the corner joint, then apply a silicone sealant using the spray gun, spraying it with a sprayer, filled by water with detergent and using a silicone scraper to remove excess material
10. final treatment
One of the last steps in the construction or renovation of a bathroom is mounting fixtures. In practice, drilling holes to hold it. This can be problematic if we have used sintered body tiles on the wall panelling. Special, mostly water-cooled drills are needed here. This is simpler with porcelain shards. Mark the sport for drilling, tap it lightly into a punch (to better hold the drill position) and make a hole with a diamond drill (without impact).
|Tiling bathrooms step by step. http://www.obklady.cz/krok-za-krokem/obkladacky/6-Obkladani-koupelny-krok-za-krokem/1. [online]. 10.10.2016 [cit. 2016-10-10]. Available from: http://www.obklady.cz/krok-za-krokem/obkladacky/6-Obkladani-koupelny-krok-za-krokem/1|